THE WINNER: Fitzroy Town Hall Hotel. Score 17.5/20

It could easily have been pub of the year 5 years ago. Had some aliases over the journey, including the Wine Pub (yes).

Two levels of pricing – bar/restaurant and both deliver in spades. Above all, this is not a restaurant in a pub, although the food could easily pass for such. It is a genuine local, with a local’s heart and Sean Donovan is the equal of any cook in a pub in my time of talking pubs.

Beer’s excellent, fabulous front bar, but equally wonderful dining areas at the rear, the Fitzroy Town Hall is the DeBortoli Pub of the Year.